Friends of Blas

How would you feel about taking a primitive airplane to a band-aid sized air strip on a miniature island in the middle of the sea, only to be picked up in a leaking rubber dinghy by this guy? Just wondering...

Because that's exactly what five NYC friends did in Spring, 2008. Apart from perfect sailing, pristine anchorages, and friendly locals, the real highlight of our two months in the San Blas, was the amazing time we had with friends -- both the sailors and the "flyers." Name dropping and photos below, beginning with the sailor types.

Taiga Party

Back in January, 2008, in Providencia (Colombia), we met Jean-Luc and Magali of s/v Taiga, with their beautiful daughters, Thais and Gaia. We had a great time exploring Providencia by scooter and foot with them. We looked forward to meeting up again in Panama, which finally happened at the beginning of April, on our way to the San Blas. Over the course of the next two months, we spent lots of time anchoring together, and became even better friends. We even ended up finishing our time in Panama, together, on the hard, at Shelter Bay Marina.

Pretty Taiga, with Thais and Gaia at the lookout on the first spreaders.

Jen, Magali, and Thais -- always lots to talk about; Thais and Gaia -- always lots to giggle about!

Magali and Jen logged hours and hours of snorkeling in the outer islands, where the water is crystal clear. It was great to find a friend who also loves to explore and swim for hours at a time. Jen learned a lot from Magali, who is an athletic and experienced snorkeler, with a skill for finding and identifying reef creatures. Together we saw eagle rays and monster stingrays, nurse sharks, moray eels, crabs and lobsters, snappers and jacks, pompanos, barracudas (lots of those, of course), angelfish, huge puffers and groupers, to name just a few.... One thing I will never forget is the three meter high brain coral we saw off West Coco Banderas. How many thousands of years old is a brain coral that size? Next time, I'll have an underwater camera.

Jean-Luc and Mag with another monster grouper.

Jean-Luc introduced Ulf to spear-fishing. Lucky for Ulf, Jean-Luc is as generous as he is skilled. Though Ulf never mastered spear-fishing, he ate extremely well as long as we were with Taiga.

Ulf had a bit more luck with his fishing pole. One afternoon, around "shark hour," (which oddly coincides with "happy hour," e.g. 1700) something big tugged on the fifty pound fishing line dangling off Sea Quill's stern. Forty biceps-burning minutes later, Ulf and Jean-Luc reeled in a two meter long nurse shark.

They took these pictures, then cut the line. And Jen thought nursies were vegetarians...

Cuban Connection

We reconnected with Michele and Claude of s/v Bleu Nuage, whom we met in Cienfuegos, Cuba, in March, 2007. It was wonderful to see them again, this time over "molas" instead of "mojitos." We had two great nights together, before heading separate ways. Michele even taught Jen her delicious French bread recipe -- using sea water. Thanks, Mimi!

Two photos: courtesy Jen Ziegler

A Cruising Convert

Jen Ziegler, a.k.a. "JZ" (the other, also-famous rapper), flew in to hang with Sea Quill and see for herself what this whole cruising thang is about.

The last time we spoke to JZ, was before we left Portobelo nearly a month earlier, when she had a plan but no plane reservation. We were pretty certain we would not have email access over the coming weeks, so we just agreed to meet each other at the air strip at Jesus de Corazon on the morning of April 19, when the once-a-day plane came in.

That morning, Ulf and Jen were on the tarmac at 6:30 a.m., praying everything had gone as planned. The plane appeared and landed and two travelers got off -- but no JZ. We stood on the runway stunned; how were we going to find her now? A few moments later, a second plane appeared on the horizon. It flew low over Nargana, landed on the tarmac, and out hopped -- JZ!!

Whew!

We lifted the anchor and sailed to the offshore islands. It was JZ's first sailing experience, but we think she really liked it. As a long-time climber, she was a quick study with the principles of sailing, including all that knot-tying and leveraged-power stuff.

JZ was a little pale when she arrived, but not for long.

We sailed to the so-called "Swimming Pool" in the East Hollandes, where the water is amazingly clear.

We had some gorgeous days snorkeling, followed by the requisite "sundowner". We love our sundowners.

We ate lots of yummy stuff like curries and pizzas and treats from NY, like good dried mushrooms, soups, chocolate and cookies -- gifts from JZ, and Sara and Jeremy, NYC friends who visited Sea Quill in Jamaica. We loved our gifts!

Either Ulf is really into the food, or I don't know what... Photos: courtesy JZ

Another great aspect of the cruising lifestyle -- besides the sailing, snorkeling, traveling, and nature -- is the time one has to read, write, and think... hmm.

Surprise

Midway into JZ's visit, we were in the process of sailing from our anchorage in the East Hollandes, to another in Coco Banderas East, when we got a strange hail on the VHF radio. The caller did not identify himself, or his vessel, but repeatedly asked for "Mr. Ulf."

It could only be -- Alberto. But he was calling us on the VHF, which meant that he had to be within five or ten miles of Sea Quill. April Fools? It was a little late for that. But Alberto and Madeline were really on Nargana. They had sent numerous emails the previous week saying they'd bought tickets at the last minute, and were coming to find us. Since we had no email access in the San Blas, we never got their messages. But when they arrived on Nargana, they quickly found Juliano and his VHF radio.

We changed course for Nargana and were all together on Sea Quill a couple hours later.

Photos: courtesy JZ

We headed for Green Island, where Alberto and Madeline gathered snails for a Tuscan-style seafood soup.

Over the next few days at Green Island and East Coco Banderas, we learned about Alberto and Madeline's exciting move back to Alberto's home town in Tuscany. Their surprise visit to Sea Quill was a last hurrah before their big, life-changing move.

JZ's last day on Sea Quill came too fast -- NOOOooooo!! We took a beautiful dinghy ride up Rio Diablo on our last evening together. Awww. In our humble opinions, this gorgeous, fun, adventurous woman is a sure convert to the cruising lifestyle. Awesome, single, sailing men out there -- are you listening?!!

Return of the Dulce Duo

JZ flew out one morning, and Sandie and Ron flew in the next. It was Sandie and Ron's third visit to Sea Quill. They are now as qualified as we are -- more, in fact -- to operate our fair yacht.

We sailed to Green Island for Alberto and Madeline's last night in San Blas. We had a great afternoon swimming and talking (okay, and drinking a little), and then the guys built a big, manly fire for a barbecue on the beach. The next morning, Alberto and Madeline caught an ulu taxi back to Nargana with Claudia and Pablo, for their return flight to the US. That must have been cool: we've never done that.

After a stormy afternoon and evening, where we watched dolphins playing and hunting near our boat, we sailed to the East Hollandes and Coco Banderas with Sandie and Ron, for a week of real R&R in quiet anchorages and crystal clear water.

Off the long reef at Coco Banderas, Ulf and Ron explored the fifteen year old wreck of a big steel ship. Spear fishing neighbors reported a great white shark in the vicinity, and a giant old grouper... but that's just hearsay.

The week with Ron and Sandie passed way too quickly. Too soon we were on our way back to Nargana (our fourth time), to meet their return flight. We found ourselves at Nali's once again.

Here's are some parting shots of Sandie looking beautiful, and Ron looking rather "Cap'n Ron".

And the real parting shots...

We love you guys.