Isla Providencia, Colombia

On Christmas Eve, 2007, we arrived at Isla Providencia, Colombia, from Guanaja, Honduras, having anchored in the Vivorillo Cays and the Arecifes de Media Luna, and weathered Cabo Gracias a Dios, the actual and symbolic turning point on the east and southbound route to Panama. Though we sailed into Providencia with a perfect 20 knot wind behind us, and a fast passage to show for it, we were hobbled by a broken diesel water pump and no spare parts. Arriving, we understood that we would be staying in Providencia for awhile, waiting for parts. Though, we hardly guessed how long the wait would be.

The green, mountainous terrain surrounding Catalina Harbor was a welcome sight. As long as we must wait, this place -- Isla Providencia -- looked like a good place to do it.

We arrived with our friend Andrew, who met us in Roatan, Honduras, to sail to Panama. Engine troubles curtailed our plans to get to Panama; so after three weeks sailing from Roatan, Andrew left us in Providencia. We spent Christmas together; then he traded his sea-berth on Sea Quill for a shower and a double bed at Flaming Trees Hostel, a colorful Caribbean inn with a shady garden and a rooftop terrace.

400 miles from mainland Colombia, and a 150 from Nicaragua, Providencia is isolated, and barely touched by tourism. The island relies on weekly supply ships for nearly all food and materials. After New Years, Andrew left on the main supply ship and occasional passenger ferry, Miss Isabel, headed for San Andres, the nearest island with an international airport. From San Andres, he flew to Panama to continue his travels.

The lifestyle on Providencia is relaxed, and the small towns that dot the island's 17 square kilometers are neat, cheerful and friendly. Almost all locals speak three languages fluently: Spanish, English, and an impenetrable Creole. The island was first settled by Puritans, who exploited slaves to cultivate it. English, Dutch, and Spanish pirates used it as a hideout and launching point for raids on passing ships. Many families have lived on the island continuously for hundreds of years. In the 1990s, laws were written to prevent non-islanders, including Colombian mainlanders, from buying land. Tourism and industry have been strictly controlled. Consequently, Providencia's wealth, culture, and fate, remain in the hands of the descendents.

Collectivos, with wooden benches built into the bed of the pickup, are the major form of public transportation. Scooters and dirt bikes are the main private transportation.

The island is home to all kinds of lizards, including blue and turquoise varieties. At dawn and dusk, wading birds fish the flats along Catalina harbor.

Our friends on Frodo arrived a few hours before us, so we resumed the pleasant habit of sightseeing and hanging out together. We visited Albert's Place, on Playa Suroeste...

And swam and barbecued at the little beach on Catalina Island, just around the corner from our anchorage:

(Previous six photos, courtesy of Frodo)

After three weeks our package arrived from the United States, but with the wrong parts. We learned that our particular Yanmar diesel engine was made in Europe, not Japan, and consequently takes a different model of water pump, with different sized bearings and seals than the standard. After a few days verifying facts by internet and phone, we placed a new parts order, and began the waiting game all over again. As Frodo was preparing to leave for the San Blas, we met Jean-Luc and Magali, and their daughters, Thais and Gaia, of s/v Taiga.

Jean-Luc and Magali, who are avid wind surfers, took advantage of the high winds we had for a week (25 knots sustained, with gusts above 40) to surf the harbor.

They are also good spear fishers. They shot this incredible grouper, that fed four families for a couple days:

We rented scooters to explore the beaches and sights of the island. Ulf's blue bike was no match for Gaia's red one.

We loitered at Frenchy's in the hamlet of Aguadulce:

... and at Roland's Roots Bar on gorgeous Playa Manzanillo:

(Previous six photos, courtesy of Taiga)

Jen and the Taigas hiked from Casabaja to El Pico, the highest point on Providencia, with a 360 degree view of the green hills, the ocean, the reefs, little Catalina island, and the yachts in the harbor far below.

(Photo courtesy of Taiga)

We were honored to be the only adults invited to Thais's 9th Birthday Bash (though the jury's still out on whether Ulf was one of the adults or one of the kids).

Here are Daralee and Gaia, and Monique:

Thais, and Kiara:

and Mr. Ulf:

(Party photos, courtesy of Taiga)

When Taiga sailed off on a good northeast breeze for Boca del Toro, Panama, we were beginning to feel like permanent residents of Catalina Harbor. We were looking at another couple weeks of waiting for the second parts package, so Ulf decided to bare scrape and re-varnish Sea Quill's exterior wood, which sorely needed it after more than a year of full-time use in Caribbean sun. With the best of intentions, but neither patience nor commitment, Jen's contribution to Sea Quill's new varnish was a fresh footprint on the companionway sill.

Vivian and Paul of s/v Watergeus arrived, and we were glad to see our friends from the Rio Dulce again. Vivian and Jen went hiking, leaving Paul to his saxophone, and Ulf to the endless varnishing.

There are no poisonous snakes, scorpions, nor other dangers on Providencia. The only things to watch out for while hiking are some trees with fat, black thorns in the shape of bulls' horns, which give them an odd half-plant, half-animal look. Small, biting ants live among their ferny leaves.

A week later, when Vivian and Paul left for Panama, we were still biding our time. Our new pump, faintly glimpsed by tracking reports on the internet -- Newark...Raleigh...Miami...Bogota... Baranquilla... San Andres -- inched its slow way toward us.